Not Your Mother's Margarine

Today's margarine case is full of more varieties than a typical ice cream parlor -- regular, low-fat, squeeze, tub, 60 percent oil, etc. What will work best in a recipe calling for margarine or a favorite recipe ripe for conversion?

There is a whole new generation of margarine products on the market today designed to help consumers reduce fat and cholesterol in their diets. Like the margarine consumers have used for decades, these products are vegetable oil-based, contain no cholesterol and have considerably less saturated fat than butter. Margarine can be a part of a low cholesterol diet.

In fact, the average fat content of margarine products has been reduced by 30 percent -- from 80 percent in 1980 to about 56 percent today. This change has occurred in response to consumer demand, following recommendations by health authorities such as the American Dietetic Association, the American Heart Association and the U.S. Surgeon General that the American public reduce intake of total fat, saturated fat and cholesterol.

Margarine products are used primarily for spreading on various breads (65%) and as a topping on a variety of foods (10%). However, 25 percent are used by consumers for cooking and baking. When cooking or baking with margarine products, consumers should understand that product oil levels vary and can often affect recipe results. To select the right margarine product for various uses, it is important to understand the differences between them. The following descriptions should help.

Margarine

With no other descriptors in the name (such as "light") must meet government guidelines ("standard of identity") for minimum fat content (80%). The same is true for butter. Unlike the products mentioned below, the percentage of oil is not found on margarine or butter packages because the standard of identity does not require it (similar to whole milk which does not show the percentage of fat on the container). One can tell if the product is regular margarine by checking the Nutrition Facts: a one tablespoon serving will have 100 calories.

Margarine can be used in all recipes where margarine or butter is specified. The results will meet expectations, especially where baking is concerned. However, if margarine is labeled "light", "lower fat", "reduced fat", "reduced calorie/diet" or "fat-free", see the guidelines below before cooking and baking.

Vegetable Oil Spreads

Products that contain less than the 80 percent oil mandated by the government for margarine. The front of the package will often state the percentage of oil in the product (e.g., 70% vegetable oil spread).

Modified Margarines

The result of recently implemented nutrition labeling regulations. These products can be called "margarine", but this identification must be preceded by one of the Food and Drug Administration's approved nutrient content claims. To qualify, the product must meet certain criteria:

• Reduced-fat or reduced-calorie/diet margarine -- will contain no more than 60 percent oil (25% reduction in fat and calories)
• Light/lower fat margarine -- will contain no more than 40 percent oil (50% or more reduction in fat)
• Fat-free margarine -- virtually fat-free, will contain less than 1/2 gram of fat per serving

Regular margarine can be used in all recipes where margarine or butter is specified. The results will meet expectations, especially where baking is concerned. However, if margarine is labeled light, low-fat, reduced-fat or fat-free, or is called a vegetable oil spread, these guidelines should be followed for cooking and baking. You will want to check out the front of the package, which will often state the percentage of oil in the product (e.g., 70% vegetable oil spread, 26% corn oil). If a product is regular margarine, it will have 100 calories per tablespoon, and according to the government's standard of identity, the percentage of oil in regular margarine - 80% -- need not be listed on the package.

Using Margarine in Recipes

The following guidelines should be helpful when selecting a margarine product for use in a favorite recipe. Keep in mind, however, that many recipes now available (especially on product packages) are designed for use with these lower oil margarines.

• 60 percent or more oil products can be used almost anywhere butter or margarine is specified. However, vegetable oil spreads and modified margarines (e.g., reduced-fat, light) should not be used for baked goods that require precise amounts of fat and moisture, such as pastry crusts and spritz cookies (unless a recipe has been developed specifically for a particular margarine product).
• 50-59 percent oil products also work well for most cooking, such as the preparation of side dishes and sautéing, in addition to topping and spreading.
• 49 percent or less oil products should be used only for spreading, topping and adding flavor to recipes that already contain a significant amount of moisture (e.g., macaroni and cheese). They are not designed for baking and frying.

Keep in mind this "rule of thumb" when selecting a margarine for cooking or baking:

The higher the oil content, the more fat there is in the product. While fat does add calories, it contributes texture and browning properties to foods.

The lower the oil content, the less fat there is in the product. This is critical to know when sautéing or baking, since products with the lower amount of fat do not perform in the same way as regular margarine.